Day 4, We woke early and took a minivan (pretty comfy actually) towards the border (of Thailand and Laos). On the way we stopped about every 2 hrs, thankfully. 1st stop was at a cashew factory, where we got to see the fruits growing on the trees, they look weird like a pear with the seed hanging out of the bottom like a little turd (sorry, it really does). And also got to see the process (several parts) that is involved in getting it out of several layers and into edible form. They had a bunch of different ones to buy at the attached store. I got the salted ones (very fresh and tasty) and something called coconut balls (just dried coconut and sweetener in little hard balls, very yummy. But some of the others got interesting ones. The sesame coated, caramel and coconut ones were also good. The coffee ones were really odd. Apparently the ginger and chili ones were really strong.
2nd stop was at a place called the white temple, it was pretty amazing, though not my favorite by a long shot, it was VERY white though too new. It's only a few years old and still in progress. Then lunch at a little cafe type place across from the temple. Egg noodles in cocunut milk with chicken. Pretty darn tasty, though NO vegtables in this one. (oh well). Then more driving on windy tree and rice field lined roads. Long stoped to let us go out in a field and "talk" to some people working. i got to try to harvest some rice! It is harder than it looks. You use a curved serrated blade towards yourself to cut through the stalks while holding them with the other hand. Since it was harvest the fields were a lot drier than I was expecting, though we still walked on the little raised pathes between the sections! It was very neat. (also good to stretch our legs). After about another hour of driving we arrived at the border. I had lost my departure card, it fell out of my passport, but after glaring at me for a bit the border guard gave me another to fill out. Forms filled out, glared at, we all trooped aboard a teensy boat and got shuttled across the Meekong to Laos. Then, paperwork! Paid the $35 visa fee and we were in. Met our Local Guide Gao? and headed to the Guesthouse. The walls are woven mats and the shower is just on the wall of the bathroom, you shower over the toilet. Bed was incredibly uncomfortable. Dropped off our bags and then walked to check out the market (had some really tasty rice ball? with coconut milk and spring onions, mmmm) and saw lots of the same vegtables along with skinned squirrel. Ew. Then Dinner at a Lao Barbecue with the whole group. You get veggies and meat, then pour soup around the outside of the "barbecue" on your table and put the veggies in to make soup, ten grill the meat on the top of the domed barbecue. then dip in sauce and eat. Odd but tasty. Then bed.
Day 5, we got up early and had breakfast at the guesthouse we had ordered the night before. I got an "omelet" scrambled egg, in a pancake type shape) fresh fruit juice, banana and something else?? and sticky rice. I wasn't expecting the sticky rice to be palin, it was very dry. Then we went down to our "slow boat" to ride down the Meekong. It is a loong boat, probably 100 feet or so. the 1st 2/3 was the cockpit? area and then a passenger area with comfy seats in different settings, 8 double seats with tables, and 2 long ones you could lay out on. then a table with chairs in the back, then a little counter area and then a bathroom, with the "house" of the boat family in the back 1/3. Beautiful and peaceful, we actually went faster than I expected so there was a bit of a breeze. There is a roof over the boat, and curtains you can pull on the sides so I managed to not get sunburned. Lots of trees and hills on either side it was beautiful. We stopped around 11am to see a "traditional" village. (set up for tourists, but still neat) and wandered there for a bit, there were puppies (tiny) and baby chickens everywhere!! and small children who wanted their pictures taken. I got a few pretty shots I think. Then back to the boat where we had a wonderful lunch made by the boat family. Curry chicken, stir fired veggies, pumpkin and pork soup, tempura fish, rice. Then more river. About 4:30 arrived in Pakbeng. Hiked our bags uphill to the guesthouse, real walls and pretty, but bed again uncomfortable. (I took a realllly quick shower, then we ordered next day breakfast and went wandering. Walked through the market area and then looked at the temple (and saw the sunset) the monks were chanting the evening prayer?, which we have heard before, but this was by far the most beautiful I have heard. Then dinner, we got to try the Laos "Whiskey" rice grappa essentially, though smoother than expected, it had almost no taste. And I got Buffalo Larb (a mixed of minced buffalo, mint, onions, chilies and other things) with sticky rice. I learned that they give you a TON of sticky rice, so sharing can be done. Then the girls headed back to the guesthouse and the boys and M headed to a bar. D and I stopped on the way back and had massages. Still mostly pokey, and she spent about 80% of the time on my lower legs, not what I wanted but I'll keep trying.
Day 6 - Breakfast of Sticky rice in coconut milk, (kind of like soup) and juice and hot water for tea.Then back on the boat. Lunch on the boat was stir fried veggies with tofu and chicken, tofu and pumpkin soup, tempura string beans, and chow mein (little noodles) with veggies and Rice. Today's long ride broken up by a stop at the Pak Ou Caves, with tons of Buddahs in every crevice. Called the caves of the 1000 buddahs? it wasn't as impressive as I was expecting, but still pretty limestone caves. The lower one actually had way more Buddahs, we walked up 213 steps to the upper cave that was dark but still pretty. ( the Gao and I counted on the way back down and I ended up giggling most of the way, it was fun). Then more boat. It was about 8 hours on the boat all told, but peaceful and nice. Arrived at Luang Prabang around 5 and took a van to the Guesthouse which is a bit out of town but beautiful! Real comfy bed FINALLY! With a mosquito netting which was needed since some of the bathroom is open where the shower is. The Bathroom is HUGE and has benches. :) Rested for a bit and then we all met to take one of the free shuttles into town as a group. Got dropped off at the night market and walked through to a restaurant for dinner., OH MY, soooo good. 5 of us got the "set menu" which was pretty expensive but sooo very good! and soo much food! We started with Bamboo and vegi soup, which was an odd dark green with stuff in it. The bamboo and pumpkin and mushrooms were tasty. There were little green round things which were bitter. but the soup was good with a bit of spice. I had tried it the day before when long ordered it and it was much less spicy this time. Then after soup, oh wow. Sticky rice with 3 dipping sauces, tomato, chili, eggplant, dried seaweed with sesame and garlic, dried buffalo, sausage, chicken in lemongrass, steamed fish with dill, sliced pumpkin salad (warm, steamed, it was delicious), then purple sticky rice with coconut and then tea. I got lemongrass and ginger tea, which was hotwater with bits of lemongrass and ginger in it, very tasty. Oh and I started with tamarind cooler. It was all oh so tasty and worth it. Then we split up and J and D and I wandered through the night market as it was shutting down for a bit then headed back to the guesthouse by tuk-tuk. The market seems to have much better stuff than the ones in Chang Mai, more actual stuff rather than junk. Then bed, oh so comfy and it was reassuring to sleep in a mosquito net.
Now Day 7 starts. :) I just ate an "omelet" with cheese and fruit (dragon fruit, paypaya, mango, tangerine, banana, asian pear) and home made yogurt while updating. Off to a waterfall in a bit! Ta all!
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